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How to Look After Black Hair
02/09/10
The typical hair and hair follicles of those of African descent are tightly curled, thus producing hair that spirals. Black hair also typically has a larger diameter than Caucasian hair and retains less water, thus its relative “kinkiness.” The many styling methods utilized on Black hair cause concern with hair loss. Black hair is very strong, fortunately so because Black hair styles cause a great deal of Stress on the hair and scalp.
For example, using a hair pick to pick the hair up to a bushy style is a very damaging process due to the constant pulling causing stress on the hair shaft as well as the follicle. In fact, combing Black hair in general can create high stress on Black hair and cause breakage, which perpetuates dryness. Conrowing and braiding are methods of hairstyling that pull the hair tight, and this can cause a great deal of stress on the hair and scalp resulting in hair loss. Braiding that results in the hair being pulled very tight can cause traumatic alopecia, a hair loss that is caused by trauma to the hair and scalp. Traumatic alopecia is usually reversible with proper hair care.
Hot combs and relaxers used to straighten hair can cause a great deal of heat and chemical damage to hair and scalp, which can also cause traumatic alopecia, and over time can cause permanent hair loss. This becomes especially true when the heat or chemically processed hair is pulled tight by rollers or a hot curling iron.
Hot oil conditioners are excellent for Black hair, as hot oil treatments contain proteins and polymers vital to repairing the hair cuticles. Hot oil treatments involve heating the oil and putting it into the hair and scalp, then covering the hair with a plastic cap to allow the oil to soak in. Follow the recommendations on the treatment you are using for the amount of time you should leave the treatment on the hair. This process can heal breakages and shinier stronger hair will be the result.
Consider that hair relaxers commonly used on Black hair contain lye or similar chemicals that break down the hair shaft. Left on beyond the recommended time, these chemicals would eat right through the hair and cause it to fall out in clumps. This is why these same products are used in products like Drano® to clean clogged drains which often are clogged by hair. No-lye relaxers are very popular today, mainly because it leads people to believe that the product is not caustic. This is far from the truth. The combination of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate are combined to form guanidine hydroxide, which could just as easily clean a sink. Repeated use of such products can cause some degree of hair loss, and if scarring occurs while using these chemicals, the hair loss can be permanent in that area of the scalp. One must ask themselves is it wise to place such caustic chemicals in the hair on a regular basis for the sake of desired appearance? The question must be answered by each individual, however the facts should be known.
There is little that can be done to alleviate this syndrome without changing the typical hairstyles of African Americans. There is a catch-22 concerning relaxing Black hair, since combing natural Black hair causes so much stress and breakage of hair, while chemicals cause so much harm to the hair and scalp as well. There are a few hair-relaxing products on the market that use chemicals and are somewhat less harsh than sodium hydroxide (lye) or its popular equivalent in “no-lye” relaxers: calcium hydroxide (quicklime) mixed with guanidine carbonate. One such product is called Natural-Laxer® and Sahara Clay® by Baka ProductsTM that has been on the market since 1990. This product is all natural and because it does not contain many of the harsh chemicals of commercial relaxers and actually contains only a finely ground plant called Daphne Gnidium and clay from Africa it is figured to be relatively safe. Of course this product does not straighten hair in most instances the same way as commercial relaxers, however it does tend to make Black hair more manageable. There is yet another product on the market that is reported to be 92-96% natural which is called Naturalaxer Kit In A Jar™ that does not require the applicant to comb through the hair during the application, which results in a lot less damage.
Of course the bottom line is once again, if you can leave your hair in its natural state then you will experience less stress and damage to the hair and thus prevent at least one cause of hair loss. There is a growing segment of the Black population that is becoming comfortable with wearing their hair in natural styles. One such style is dreadlocks. There are many rumors and myths concerning dreadlocks, as there is little proper information available concerning this style, and as with anything that is misunderstood many myths arise around it. Dreadlocks can and must be washed; otherwise they will smell badly like any other dirty hair. The best process to use to wash dreadlocks is to use a residue-free shampoo. Most commercially made shampoos leave residue and can cause hair not to lock, lending fuel to the rumor that hair had to be dirty to form dreadlocks. Clean hair actually locks much better than dirty hair, as dirt is a residue in itself that will inhibit hair from locking. For best results one should use a fragrance free, conditioner free shampoo. Dreadlocks do not react well to oily and greasy substances, yet there are many good substances that are on the market today that will assist you in forming dreadlocks.
Dreadlocks are formed through a process, not simply by not combing or brushing the hair. Generally, one should start with hair about two inches in length, and the hair should be separated into even squares of hair and twisted gently together using a bonding or gel substance. Many use natural beeswax containing no petroleum, while others use loc and twist gels specifically formulated for locks. Once the hair is separated and twisted into small locks, it is important that they are left alone and allowed to bond naturally. The length of time it will take to lock will depend on the coarseness of your hair, but one can normally expect to wait several months before locks begin to form. While the hair is locking, it will need to be washed. Here is where washing should be extended for a while if possible, so that the hair can be allowed to lock for two weeks to about a month without manipulation. When you do wash your hair, use a stocking cap or “do-rag”, and low-pressure water to make sure that the newly forming locks do not come loose. It will be necessary to rinse for a much longer time than you normally do, because of the lower pressure of the water and the lack of direct manipulation of your hair with your hands. The water is good for your hair and locking process, so this is not a problem. It is also imperative as indicated before that you use a shampoo that does not contain a conditioner and leaves as little residue as possible. A little research on your part will be necessary here; your health food store should contain a variety of natural shampoos. Have a skilled professional or a friend re-twist the hair gently, reapplying the twist gel or beeswax that you used previously. Repeat this process every two weeks to a month, the longer you are able to wait the better, and within a few months your hair will begin to lock.
Again, if you have a fine grade of hair rather than a kinky grade of hair, a beautician skilled at forming locks (“locktitian”) or a friend who is very familiar with the hairstyle should be consulted. Even though dreadlocks are mainly a hairstyle for Blacks, there are other races that have people that enjoy the hairstyle. In general, it tends to be a style of hair that in the long run will give the hair and scalp needed rest from the rigors of chemical and heat treatments and rigorous combing and brushing, and therefore can contribute to longer life for your hair.
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This article is a must read if you want to grow longer hair, or even stop hair loss. No matter how many products or treatments you have tried, hair growth can be achieved despite years of stunted hair growth, shedding, and hair trauma. Trust me, I am speaking from personal experience. About three years ago, I was diagnosed with breast cancer. Unfortunately, one of the side effects of my medications and chemotherapy was hair loss and balding. Devastated by having patches of hair on my head, during recovery, I did what most people do—I bought wigs. At first, the wigs seemed like a perfect solution. But, they were really a cover up. Moreover, my niece would scream when she saw me because she couldn’t recognize me with my “new wig.” So, I begin using hair loss products in hopes to regrow my hair. Unfortunately, this was another unsuccessful venture. Rogaine. DHT Blockers. Minoxidil. All of these products failed to perform what they promised. Further, I spend hundreds of dollars on Minoxidil every month, only to have no hair growth and a sore scalp. Frustrated, I decided that there had to be a method or some natural product available that would grow my hair, stop my shedding, and stop my balding. Believe it or not, I found one. However, there are some things you need to know about hair loss before I tell you what worked for me.
What Causes Hair Loss?
Hair loss, shedding, and balding occurs for several reasons. They may occur because of heredity, diet, lifestyle choices, or prescribed medications. Even your hair care products and styling techniques may be facilitating your hair loss or stunting your hair growth. If you are like me, a combination of these factors may be retarding your hair growth. If your diet is laden with fats, alcohol, sugars, and junk foods, you are actually inhibiting your hair’s ability to grow. If you buy most, if not all, of your hair care products from traditional stores, you are most likely buying a hair-damaging useless product. Most hair care products, including most of those that claim to be “all-natural,” contain synthetic emulsifiers and harsh detergents, such as Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, Phosphates, and Sodium Lauryl Sulfate. Unfortunately, these products are loaded with toxins and chemicals that actually dry and strip your hair of vital nutrients it needs to grow.
How to Grow Your Hair, Stop Balding, and Stop Hair Loss?
You have to attack hair loss on the inside and the outside. A great hair growth regimen has three necessary components: a healthy eating plan, substantial water intake, and a high quality hair growth and hair care product.
Step One: A Healthy Hair Eating Plan
Your hair is all protein. Thus, you need a protein rich diet, chocked fill of B Vitamins and other hair-strengthening nutrients. Increase your intake of fish. It is full of healthy proteins and essential fatty acids and natural oils your hair needs. In addition, drink a protein supplement or shake everyday. If you follow this plan, not only will your hair grow, but you will also lose weight. That is, of course, if you lay off the junk food. Remember, I warned you too much junk food above.
Step Two: Drink Water
Eight to ten glasses of water is an absolute requirement. Drinking water flushes your body of toxins, chemicals, and impurities that stifle your hair growth and disrupt your hormone and enzyme imbalances. Water also transports the important nutrients your body needs throughout your body. Hate drinking water? Add lemon and Splenda to have a healthy, tasty alternative.
Step Three: Buy a High Quality Hair Growth Product
I suggest you go all-natural. Unnatural hair care products are a no-no for someone who wants long-lasting, healthy hair growth. Find a hair growth product that contains powerful essential oils, natural herbs, and vitamin rich nutrients your hair needs to survive. Look for products with ingredients such as: Aloe Vera, Citrus Fruits, Jojoba, Rosemary, and Sage. Make sure you stray away from all natural products that use natural extracts. Extracts are not as powerful as essentials oils. They are a cheap substitute for the real thing. Although there are several natural hair care products on the market, not all hair growth products are created equal. Make sure you read the fine print. Most “natural” products still contain phosphates, sodium lauryl sulfate, petroleum, mineral oil, and other lab created humectants that ultimately damage your hair. My advice—if you can’t read the ingredients, don’t buy the product. When I was searching for a natural hair growth product, I found one really great buy, Beauty 4 Ashes Super Hair Growth System. Finding this company took me awhile; but Beauty 4 Ashes pretty much gives you everything you need to make your hair grow. Foremost, I checked the ingredient listings and the products contained no artificial ingredients. The system also included hair growth vitamins, a great hair healthy eating plan, and even scalp stimulating hair growth exercise routine. At first, the system may seem a bit pricey, but, boy was I impressed with the results. In 9 months, I went from patches of hair to hair just above my shoulders. Now, I am no product junkie; but I have to tell you that this product is worth the money. It does not cost an arm and leg and it is worth every penny you pay. You can find it easily at www.discoverb4a.com. Also, check for it on Ebay. You may actually find a deal.

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